We will set aside for the moment, the opening chant-song and procession of two fellows in black hooded capes (ooo, spooky) and a purple-and-black-dreadlocked goth gal waggling around the equivalent of flaming marshmellows on sticks extending from her fingertips. Runway theatrics (Marc Jacobs' marching band) are nothing new and often unrelated to the clothing. It is harder to set aside the stench of kerosene, and we're not entirely sure that our respiratory system hasn't suffered some harm in the aftermath.
The runway show featuring a handful of independent PDX designers several times tripped down the yellow brick road toward over-the-top costume-y fashion--and unfortunately we don't mean John Galliano's Dior couture or say, Heatherette. Invizible's black vinyl dress with its tightly fitted hood and hotpants tipped the scales at the fetish-y end of things. In fact there was lots of plasticized or metallic-printed fabric. Lots. There was also Lex Luthorwear for men by Elodie Massa as in a stiff pieced black coat out of something approximating neoprene with exaggerated sleeves coming to a point some 3-5 inches beyond the fingertips.
The first bit that set our Geiger counters to ticking was an ivory fur coat with ivory fur cap (Invizible by Jaime Eisenschmidt) worn fetchingly by experimental musician and instigator Noah Mickens. Eisenschmidt's black hooded sleeveless dress criss-crossed and banded with yellow-gold lace was another interesting piece.
Kalliste Edeen and Jodie Throckmorton's Wearabouts line featured primarily salvaged fabrics pieced into paneled skirts. A pieced red halter with fabric insets over a split skirt was a good look.
design: 5elements, Imade Sukarna. photo: Pete Springer.
It was great to see Imade Sukarna's 5elements line for gentlemen again. He makes modern sportswear that plays with classic notions. A double-breasted striped sportshirt is an example. A great stripey 70s western-cut shirt with pockets cut on the bias is another. And it's nice to see a local menswear designer besides Adam Arnold pay attention to the details, from the choice of buttons to the embroidery on a black shortsleeve cotton shirt.
design: Elodie Massa. photo: Pete Springer.
Elodie Massa has a maturely defined style articulated in her repetitious use of pin-tucks, often heavier...nearly pen-tucks...and often in a pick-up-sticks random-feeling configuration to create both form and texture in her garments. This plays out interestingly in her dresses that when done in a fine fabric stake out a great middle ground between up-town and down-.
5elements designer and
owner of PALA, Imade Sukarna.
photo:
Pete Springer.
Congrats to impresario/artist/architect Fredrick Zal for pulling the whole thing together. And thank you to Pete Springer at Dogwood Digital, for photos.